SD #12: I need Masala, Masala. Masala, that’s what I need.

June 18, 2011

According to the list, the next stop on our serial dining adventure was to be Darul Kabab, an Indian/Pakistani/Bangladeshi restaurant allegedly located at 3926 61st St.  I could find only one review of it online:  undated, in the Queens Tribune online dining guide.  Turns out, that’s because it doesn’t exist anymore.  It has been replaced by another Indian restaurant called Masala.  We went there for lunch today.

If you don’t have a lot of time to read, let me sum up:  Go there.  It’s awesome.  One of the very best Indian restaurants we’ve been to, and that’s saying a lot, since we’ve been to many.  Keep reading if you want the details.

Masala is mere steps away from the 61st St station in Woodside, so even if you’re not from here, it’s easy to get to.  Here’s what it looks like from the outside:

Masala Restaurant

Masala

In that top picture, you can see the beauty of Woodside dining– there’s such amazing diversity in the food here.  Thai food right next to Indian food right next to Mexican food.  There are no icky corporate chains here other than things like McDonald’s and Dunkin Donuts– you can bet these restaurants are owned by people who come from these cultures and grew up eating this food.

Masala is widely and very positively reviewed on the web.  You can read about it on Yelp, Urban Spoon, Chowhound, Restaurant.com (bonus: you can buy a $25 gift certificate for $10!), and the unfortunately now-defunct Shauna Eats Sunnyside blog.

The service we received was efficient, attentive, and friendly.  We thought it might have been because we were there at an odd hour and were the only ones in the restaurant, but several of the reviews I’ve since read online note the excellent service, so maybe it’s like that even during busy times.  The lighting was just right, the place is clean and tastefully decorated (well, except maybe for the Mahatma Ghandi Rules of Customer Service posted by the door, seen below), and there is authentic Indian music playing softly in the background.

The Mahatma Ghandi Rules of Customer Service

Our server was friendly and informative– I suspect he’s either the owner or the manager, as he was exceptionally knowledgeable and really, REALLY wanted us to be happy with our dining experience.  He recognized Allan, who ate there several times for lunch when he lived on 62nd St more than four years ago.  That’s impressive.  He turned us on to their cheese lassi, which is simply incredible and is not listed on the menu.  Since he wasn’t terribly busy, he also made us an Indian lemonade just for the heck of it and tossed it in on the house.  Their cheese lassi contains homemade cheese, pistacchios, and rosewater, and they garnish it with saffron.  The lemonade is frozen and likewise topped with saffron water.  Here they are:

Cheese Lassi

Indian Lemonade

Our server told us the cheese lassi is considered a very healthy drink, and it’s a popular choice on farms in India on really hot days.  Of course, I don’t need to tell you that a frozen lemonade is just the very best thing on a warm day in June.  On top of these amazing drinks, they also have regular soft drinks, and our water glasses were never empty.  They do serve beer and wine, and next time we may order a bottle to go with this amazingly flavorful food.  Oh yes, there WILL be a next time.

Absolutely everything on the menu sounded good.  Lots of standard Indian fare: curry, tandoori, biryani, and malasa dishes among others, plus a few things I’d never seen before like masala crab cakes.  Like many Indian restaurants, there’s a variety of vegetarian fare.  They also now serve a Nepali grill plate, which is not on the menu.

We ordered lunch specials– various meat curries with either soup or salad.  I had lamb curry with Mulligatawny soup, and Allan had chicken curry, also with Mulligatawny soup.  We also got some naan (they spell is “nan” here), and since I’m simply not capable of eating Indian food without it, we got some raita (they spell it “raitha” here).  Here’s the food:

Mulligatawny soup

Lamb curry

Chicken curry

This is the best Mulligatawny soup I’ve ever had.  It’s pureed, which was new for me, and it had exactly the right amount of salt.  They also leave a slice of lime floating in it for extra flavor.  Like the threads of saffron atop the cheese lassi, this type of attention to detail could be found throughout the meal and really made it special.

The lamb curry was also the best I’ve ever had.  They will adjust the level of spice to your taste– the majority of their clientele is not Indian, so they don’t assume everyone’s taste for heat will be the same.  I asked for mine medium, and it was absolutely perfect.  I could feel the heat for sure; it was enough to add significantly to the flavor of the curry without making it challenging to eat.  Allan felt the same about his chicken curry.  The rice was also extremely well done.  The nan was just average– it wasn’t as delicate as other naans I’ve enjoyed more, but still enjoyable.  The only thing I didn’t really care for was the raitha, which was too sweet for my taste.  That’s okay, though, because it frees me up to try some of the other appetizers and accompaniments on the menu next time we go.  Online reviewers rave about the samosas and the Bombay mushrooms, and I’m dying to try the masala crab cake.

Prices are very reasonable.  This entire meal was $25.30 plus tip.  Go eat!

Masala Indian Restaurant on Urbanspoon

SD # 11: Two flew over the Cuckoo’s Nest

June 6, 2011

On our latest Serial Dining Woodside adventure, we wrapped up the “C” category.  Here are the relevant entries from the list:

Chu Ying Chinese Restaurant, (718) 458-8588, 6721 Woodside Ave
Cimtech, (718) 205-7333, 6708 Roosevelt Ave
Corp Lourdes, (718) 606-1791, 5802 37th Ave
Cozy Deli, (718) 777-6631, 5027 31st Ave
Cuckoos Nest, (718) 426-5684, 6104 Woodside Ave

Does Cimtech sound like a restaurant to you?  Yeah, us neither.  Corp Lourdes was a wildcard, but it seemed to us that what we’d likely wind up doing food-wise with our Sunday was lunch at Chu Ying, a quick trip to the Cozy Deli for cold drinks and a snack some time in the afternoon among the errands, and an evening of live entertainment, good eats, and artfully poured Irish beer at the Cuckoo’s Nest, which has live music every Sunday night.

We started by dutifully checking out Cimtech, just to make sure.  The verdict:  Not an eatery.  Not even close.  It is– or rather, it was — a second-floor office of some type, and appears to be for rent:

Cimtech: Not a restaurant, and not much of anything else anymore, either.

Next, we headed over to the other unknown:  Corp Lourdes.  Turns out, it’s a Filipino restaurant called Lourdess, and it was closed up tight in the middle of the day on a Sunday.  There were no hours of operation posted on the door, so it’s hard to tell if they really just take the whole Sunday = Day of Rest thing really, really seriously, or if they’ve gone under, or what.  So I Googled.  The comments and reviews on Yelp, Chowhound, and Urbanspoon were mixed, and in such an out-of-the-way location in a part of Queens with lots of Filipino dining options, you probably have to rock pretty hard to stay afloat.  I’m guessing Lourdess is defunct.  Here’s what it looks like:

So.  Lunch from Chu Ying.  This place is not new to us; in fact, it is a great favorite of ours.  It’s less than half a block from our apartment.  Allan eats there for lunch a lot when he works from home, and I’ve been there with him for a dinner a bunch of times.  They’re nice people, and good neighbors.  If you call for pickup and they know you live nearby, they’ll call you and let you know when your food is ready.  My only complaint is that when they’re not really busy with dine-in customers, the wait staff kind of hovers over your while you eat, so I suggested we call for take-out.

Chu Ying is Korean-style Chinese food.  Many of the dishes are typical of Chinese restaurant menus, and in most cases there’s no discernible difference in the way they look or taste.  In other cases, however, there’s definitely a Korean touch.  Everything comes with kimchee and pickled daikon.  The fried dumplings are deep fried, not pan fried.  Some of the dishes are either straight up Korean or a Korean version of Chinese.  You see that a lot in Queens– a restaurant with food that’s the way it would be if you were ordering Chinese food in some other country.  After all, Chinese food is everywhere.  In this general part of Queens, we have Mexican Chinese, Peruvian Chinese, Thai Chinese, Malaysian Chinese, and Vietnamese Chinese, to name just a few.

We ordered some fried dumplings to share.  Allan ordered noodles with black soybean sauce– easily one of the most popular dishes at Chu Ying, and apparently a staple Korean-Chinese dish served at virtually all restaurants of this type, either cold or hot.  I almost always order moo shoo pork from Chu Ying, but this time I decided to try something new and get the sesame chicken.  There was some broccoli in it, but not enough to convince me it was there on purpose.  It’s almost as if it snuck in from another dish being prepared at the same time.  However, we’ve seen this in Chinese chicken dishes before, like the time Allan ordered General Tso’s chicken at China Taste during our last serial dining adventure.  Therefore, I have concluded that adding a ridiculously small amount of broccoli to a dish is actually intentional.  I have decided to call this the Token Broccoli Effect.

Except for the Token Broccoli Effect, all of the food was excellent, as it always is as Chu Ying.  Here it is:

Delicious takeout from Chu Ying.

Total cost: $28, including plenty of leftover sesame chicken for lunch the next day.

Fortified by a delicious lunch, we headed out to run our typical Sunday errands:  laundry, a trip to Petsmart, groceries, etc.  While we were out and about, we stopped by the Cozy Deli for drinks and snacks as planned.  As with many of the Yahoo Yellow Pages entries, this establishment has a new name, but at least it is still a going concern.  Here it is:

ATSJ Deli & Grill, nee the Cozy Deli

What is there to say?  It’s a bodega.  It has bodega stuff.  Its most distinguishing feature is that it sells a wider variety of “classic” candy like Now & Later, Atomic Fireballs, and stuff like that than most bodegas.  We both grabbed some Arizona drinks (Arnold Palmer Half & Half for the win!) and headed back to the car to munch out:

Arnold Palmer Half & Half: Nectar of the Gods

Sunday night we walked down Woodside Ave to the Cuckoo’s Nest.  Woodside used to have a huge Irish population, and there are still a fair number of Irish-Americans and recent Irish immigrants here.  Several of the old Irish bars and restaurants are still here and doing well, such as Stop Inn, Donovan’s Pub, Saint & Sinners, Sean Og’s, and the Cuckoo’s Nest.  A bunch of these are walking distance from our apartment, and we’ll serially dine at all of them eventually.  Anyway, so there we were at the Cuckoo’s Nest.

The Cuckoo’s Next is an absolutely spectacular bar, and there’s a lot on the web about it if you’re interested.  It has been rated and reviewed on Urban Spoon, Citysearch, Yelp, New York Magazine, The Irish Emigrant, the Hitting the Head blog, and various other spots on the web.  It hasn’t been reviewed on Chowhound yet, but you do see it mentioned favorably on the boards there. (ETA: I was wrong.  Chow.com has a review of the bar here, talking about the very dish I ate!)  With very few exceptions, the reviews are terrific and describe a cozy, gorgeous Irish bar with good food, good music, and a fantastic bartender named Joe who pours a good glass of Guiness.  I have to admit, I did not know there are different ways to pour Guiness, nor did I know that doing it right makes a difference, so I can’t speak intelligently on that aspect of this bar.  Aside from that, however, our experience there matches the high praise it receives online, and we had a lovely evening.

I had a Smithwicks and some fish and chips.  Allan had a Guiness and a cheeseburger.  (This being, first and foremost, a bar, it seems appropriate to list the beers first.)  The food was fantastic, the service was good, and the musicians playing live Irish music were the real deal.  Here’s the food and a shot of the bar, complete with Celtic cross:

The rest of my pictures all came out like crap, so I suggest you click on some of the links above to see what a truly beautiful bar this is, inside and out.  On the way home, however, I did snap a shot of the 61st St station at night, and the front of Chu Ying, which I didn’t catch during the day.

61st St station at night

It occurs to me all of a sudden that, holy cow, I ate a HUGE HEAPING BUTTLOAD of deep-fried food on this particular day.  I’m usually not much for fried food, but there it is, right there in the photographs:  fried dumplings, sesame chicken which is fried before it is sauced, fried fish, and french fries.  Dude.  Somehow, I failed to hear and heed the plaintive wailing of my arteries while I was actually chowing down, but now that the deed is done, I feel I owe it to my circulatory system to go have a nice green salad somewhere.  But you know… damn that was good food.

Cuckoo's Nest on Urbanspoon

Chu Ying Chinese Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Lap Band approved for the just barely fat.

February 17, 2011

Not too long ago I wrote this about Allergan’s push to get the FDA to approve the lap band for people with a BMI as low as 30.  If you missed that post, go read it because it contains links to actual photographs of people with a BMI of 30 so you can see who we’re talking about.

A group of bariatric physicians wrote a letter urging the FDA not to approve the band due to lack of long-term studies that show it is safe and effective.  Again, these were bariatric physicians, not bariatric surgeons– in other words, people who are experts in treating fat patients but who don’t stand to be rolling in money from letting just about everybody with a fat roll get a lap band.  But money talks, and true concern for the lives and health of fat people walks.  The FDA has approved the expansion of eligibility for the band.

There are health-based criteria for who can get a lap band at such a low BMI, but I can’t help but feel like this is a camel’s nose under the tent that will eventually lead to widespread implantation of hardware into people’s bodies for vanity.  There’s a Long Island surgical practice that does lapbands, and their subway ads don’t show people’s dramatically improved AIC or cholesterol levels.  They show a woman in a bikini and another woman raving about how she doesn’t have to shop in plus size stores anymore and how, as soon as she lost the weight, a husband magically appeared.  I wish she could have seen the Adipositivity Project’s Valentine’s Day Special series (warning: NSWF) before she concluded that she needed the fat surgery in order to find love (or at least before allowing herself to be marketed that way by her surgeons), but I digress.  She does also mention that her diabetes is in remission, but that hardly seems the main thrust of the ad.

I guess the only way to get long term data on safety and effectiveness is to have subjects to study.  You can’t claim safety if you don’t have data, but you can’t get data if you don’t have subjects.  I get it.  But then the message you need to be sending in the meantime is “Hey, we’re basically experimenting on you,” not, “Woo hoo, shop off the rack at the skinny chick stores and snag yourself a husband to boot!”

 

 

 

 

 

SD #10: Beer, ice cream, and Chinese food. Can there be a better way to spend a Saturday?

February 15, 2011

Thanks to the wackiness and utter lack of both accuracy and currency in the Yahoo Yellow Pages, there are two recurring themes in our Serial Dining Woodside adventure:  Restaurants that aren’t really restaurants, and restaurants that are long gone.  It adds a certain sense of mystery and adventure, because unless we recognize the street address right away, we’re really not sure what’s going to be there when we get there.  This was one of those times.  Here are the next four places on the Serial Dining Woodside  restaurant list:

Breslin & Sweeney, 3950 61st St
Camilo Coffee Shop Inc, 6929 Queens Blvd
Carvel Ice Cream & Bakery, 5826 Roosevelt Ave
China Taste Bl Co, 4553 46th St

The address for Breslin & Sweeney sounded an awful lot like it would be right under the 61st St subway station, so we Google Street Viewed it to find out exactly what it was.  Turns out, is both not really a restaurant and not actually called Breslin & Sweeney.  It’s the Station Cafe, one of the oldest bars (maybe even THE oldest) in Woodside.  Breslin & Sweeney must be the corporation or partnership that owns the Station Cafe, because the Station Cafe has been the Station Cafe since long before there was a Yahoo Yellow Pages, so we’re not talking about a new establishment replacing an old one here.

The Station Cafe is a bar.  Not a Bar & Grill.  A bar.  So if we planned to eat a meal, we were going to have to include more than one stop on this outing.  I had actually been to Camilo’s before and I was pretty sure it was kaput, and deservedly so.  Their enchiladas were about 99% pure salt.  And Carvel, well, if you live out here you know you can’t get a meal at Carvel.  So… China Taste?  Sounds like classic Chinese take-out, doesn’t it?  There’s gotta be something lunch-like at a place called China Taste.

So the plan:  Visually confirm that Camilo’s is in fact dead, head off to China Taste to get some lunch, enjoy a beer at the Station Cafe, then top it off with an ice cream treat from Carvel.  Off we went.

Sure enough, Camilo’s is dead:

Camilo's: Like Jacob Marley, dead as a doornail.

China Taste is clear on the other side of the Woodside zip code.  In fact, I think the other side of the street it’s on is actually considered Sunnyside.  Sure enough, as we predicted, China Taste is a garden variety Chinese take-out joint.  They do have a tiny dining room with three tables in it, however, so we opted to eat in.  I don’t recommend it:  The only heat they have is provided by a single space heater, and it isn’t aimed at any of the tables.

China Taste

The menu is typical Chinese take-out.  We decided to go for some classic soups and a main course from the Chef’s Specialties section.  I had egg drop, of course, and Allan had won ton soup.  For the  main course, I chose beef and scallops, and Allan had General Tso’s chicken.

The young woman who took our order and served our food was friendly and efficient, although she did yak loudly on her cell phone nonstop during our entire meal.  The food comes in take-out containers with plastic utensils, and they bring it to you on an orange cafeteria tray.  That’s all fine– when you’re dining in at a take-out joint, you have to keep your expectations reasonable.  Here’s the food:

Mmmmm... my favorite, egg drop soup

General Tso eats his chicken out of styrofoam. Believe it or not, this is size small.

Beef & Scallops

I try the egg drop soup everywhere I go that offers it.  China Taste has the best egg drop soup I’ve had so far in Woodside.  Just the right thickness, and just the right amount of salt.  I would definitely order it again.  The scallops in my main dish didn’t seem too terribly fresh– they were a bit fishier than I would have liked.  But the beef was sliced nice and thin and appeared to be of a reasonably high quality, and the veggies and sauce were pretty typical for a dish like this.  With slightly fresher scallops, if you were in a “screw it, let’s just call for Chinese” kind of mood, this dish would do just fine.

The won ton soup was a bit watery but otherwise fine.  General Tso’s Chicken was a slightly sweeter version than we’ve had before, and consisted only of chicken and rice– no veggies at all except for two spears of broccoli that almost certainly wound up in there by accident.  Again, if you were in one of those Chinese take-out moods, this meal would serve.

Total before tax and tip: $17.70

On to the Station Cafe.  Let’s not mince words:  from the outside, this place looks like shit.  The awning is completely torn up, and there is no other ornamentation or signage of any kind to make you want to go inside.  In fact, until you yank on the door and it opens, you kind of wonder if this really is a going concern.  It’s almost like they’d really just as soon not attract new clientele, thanks.  But in we went just the same.

The Station Cafe

I expected to absolutely hate this place.  Actually, I loved it.

This is an old Irish bar that goes wayyyy back, and in fact the very first thing that happened when we walked in the door is that we were greeted by an middle-aged Irish-American barfly with a black eye.  You can’t make this stuff up.  The music is not too loud, and they actually play songs I like.   Mostly 80′s rock.  Two different Queen songs came on while we were there.  There is no food other than a rack of snack-size bags of Lays potato chips.  There is no tap.  About a dozen beers are available in bottles.  The usual complement of liquor bottles were behind the bar, so I assume they do cocktails and shots.  We kept it simple and ordered a couple of Heinekens.

The bar itself is a long, dark, very old-looking wooden affair with mirrors.  A classic.  There is no hipster bartender with a touch-screen “point-of-sale system”.  The till is either an antique mechanical cash register or a reproduction that looks like the real deal.  Directly over it hangs a relic of the days of anti-Irish bigotry:  “Help Wanted.  No Irish Need Apply.”  Tastefully framed for ironic effect.  Emblems from various labor unions adorn the wood of the bar:  Steamfitters, Lathers, and so forth.  Above it all hang soccer jerseys, autographed and framed.  Soccer played all every television in the place save one, which showed the day’s races at Aqueduct.  The bartender, Doreen, was friendly and welcoming and unpretentious and just absolutely everything I want in a bartender.  There’s a pool table in the next room, although it wasn’t getting any use in the middle of the day on Saturday.

I felt more at home at the Station Cafe than I do at most bars, and I can easily see stopping by for a beer again some time.  It’s literally right across the street from the 61st St subway stop, which makes it even more likely I will.

Total price for two beers and a tip: $11

Now, off to Carvel for some ice cream.

If you’re from around here, you already know about Carvel.  If you’re not, I have to wonder what the heck you’re doing reading about local dining in a town you’re nowhere near.  But thanks for reading anyway, and for your benefit, Carvel is a chain of ice cream parlors that sells hard and soft ice cream.  There was a Carvel in my hometown in NJ, and my family celebrated virtually every single birthday and other assorted milestones with ice cream cakes from Carvel.  The founder of the chain, Tom Carvel, did all his own commercials when he was alive, and if you grew up out here, you know that Wednesday was Sundae at Carvel, you’ve almost certain had at least a dozen Flying Saucers in your life, and you probably gave your dad a Fudgie the Whale cake for Father’s Day at least once– a whale of a cake for a whale of a dad!  Here’s a classic Tom Carvel ad for Valentine’s Day.  If you’re about my age, this will bring back memories:

Just for fun, here’s the one where Cookie Puss introduces Cookie O’Puss for St. Patrick’s Day:

Now here’s the Carvel in Woodside, complete with the Buddha that watches over you while you enjoy your frozen treats:

Ice Cream Buddha!

We’ve been living here about four years, and in that time, I think we’ve been to Carvel maybe twice.  So it was nice to have an excuse to go.  I had my all-time Carvel favorite:  vanilla soft-serve with rainbow sprinkles in a cake cone.  Allan had mint chocolate chip in a cup.  Here they are:

Total price for our Carvel run:  under $8, making the total price for today’s outing well under $40 for the day.  Not bad for an entire afternoon.

China Taste Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Carvel on Urbanspoon

Breslin & Sweeney on Urbanspoon

SD#9: Braulio’s Y Familia: You must listen. They’ve got the conch.

February 8, 2011

We’ve been at this for just over a year, and we’ve only had 8 serial dining adventures so far.  That’s pretty pitiful.  So one of my new year’s resolutions is to get out and enjoy the diversity of Woodside dining options by picking up the pace of our serial dining project.  Next up on the list:  Braulio’s y Familia, 3908 63rd St, just north of Roosevelt Ave.

After last time, when we ate lunch at Cumbre and I thought having some soup with my meal was a perfectly reasonable thing to do, I decided it would be wise to start researching restaurants a bit better before we go.  Fortunately, the city is full of foodies, and virtually every restaurant in the five boroughs has been reviewed online at least once or twice, usually by people infinitely more knowledgeable than I.  Between the bloggers and the many people who comment on their posts, there’s a lot of info to be had.

Braulio’s is Ecuadorian. If you Google, you will discover that they’re known for their Ecuadorian-style ceviche, especially at Chowhound.  So we decided that, no matter what else we ordered, we were definitely going to try the ceviche.

We went on January 30, when the neighborhood still looked like this:

I can haz Snowpocalypse?

Our car isn’t in this picture, but it was similarly entombed in snow and ice, so we walked.  Walking itself was kind of tricky, but we made it.  Here’s Braulio’s:

I’ve seen this place described on Yelp as family-friendly but on Chowhound as a creepy place that hires hot waitresses to serve mostly single men eating alone.  When we went, the waitress was perfectly normal, but there were so few other people there it was hard to tell what the current regular crowd is like.  Sunday afternoon in bad weather is apparently not a peak time for Braulio’s.

We couldn’t decide among the varieties of ceviche, so we went for the combo:  ceviche triple.  Shrimp, fish, and conch.  You can do it over rice or scoop it up on fried plantain chips.  Both ways are amazing.  They say Ecuardorian-style ceviche is really soupy, and it’s true.  I didn’t drink it right out of the bowl as some people do, but it did make the over-rice option particularly awesome.  Here’s the ceviche:

Ceviche Triple

After that, Allan had hen soup, and I had arroz marinero, which is mixed seafood in/on rice.  Here they are:

Hen soup

Arroz Marinero Ecuatoriano

Does that look like it could feed about a dozen people?  It can.  I’m sorry to say I had to leave most of it behind because we were on our way into Manhattan for the rest of the day and a doggy bag was not an option.

I’m partial to seafood to begin with, so chances are I was going to like these dishes.  No surprise, I absolutely loved them.  I have no clue how Braulio’s does with meat dishes, but their seafood rocks.  This was not a cheap bill– the ceviche alone ran us over twenty bucks.  The total, including all the food plus drinks, was $57.71 plus tip.  But there are far more reasonable things on the menu.

On our way out, we passed (who I assume to be) Braulio himself on his way in, and he stopped us to ask if we had enjoyed our meal and were happy with the service.  The finishing touch on an already lovely dining experience.

Braulio's Y Familia Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Bariatric physicians speak out against the rush to the operating table

January 20, 2011

Recently, I posted in support of a New York Times opinion piece that questioned the wisdom of the FDA expanding lap band eligibility to people with a BMI as low as 30.  Today, the Times posted a LTTE from the American Society of Bariatric Physicians on the subject.  In short, they think it’s a bad idea, too, and they want to remind everybody that surgery should be the last option, not the first.  One of the statistics they cite, which you rarely see mentioned, is that the rate of suicide among people who have had bariatric surgery is really, really high.  Hey, that’s one less fatty we all have to look at or sit next to on the plane, right?

Here’s a bit of the letter:

[T]here is no research that proves that bariatric surgery is more effective and less risky than a medical bariatric program when analyzed over the long term.

Compared with bariatric surgery, a medical bariatric program treats obese patients using nonsurgical weight-loss techniques, including diet and exercise, behavioral modification and medication when indicated.

If patients choose surgery, they require long-term diet and lifestyle changes, as well as nutritional supplementation. Almost 30 percent of current bariatric surgery patients regain the weight they initially lose or have the surgery reversed. In addition, the prevalence of suicide increases markedly for bariatric surgery patients.

Surgery should not be viewed as the first or only choice for obese patients.

Now, y’all already know I don’t particularly buy into the idea that there are other weight loss strategies that are actually effective (for the unschooled:  diets, even when combined with exercise, fail about 95% of the time in the long term).  For that matter, I don’t really believe weight loss should automatically be a goal for people just because they’re fat.  It seems much more productive to love your body, respect everybody else’s, and focus your time and attention on health gains rather than body size.  (If that sounds radical to you, Google “HAES” and be amazed.)

But the overwhelming majority of western society doesn’t think like me, and as long as Shrink The Fatties remains our national pastime, it’s nice to see some folks from the medical community speak out against the mad stampede toward the operating table.

SD#8: False rabbits and cow tongues: down home food from way up high

January 16, 2011

On our last Serial Dining adventure, we went to the address of the deservedly defunct Arnold’s Pizzeria, 6703 Woodside Ave, and found it had been replaced with a Bolivian restaurant named Restaurante Cumbre.  However, there was what appeared to be a private party taking place, so we moved on to the next place on our list.  Yesterday we walked over to Cumbre for another try.  Standing in front of the restaurant in the cold, surrounded by dirty mounds of snow still left from the two recent storms, we saw this:

Stay Warm!

Heck yeah.  This was definitely a day for some hearty soup.

The inside of the restaurant is clean, the decor is simple, and telenovelas and Andean music videos play on a big screen t.v..  This being a lunchtime excursion, it was nice and bright from all the natural light coming in through the big front window.  The server was very friendly, and she had more than enough English to compensate for our nearly nonexistent Spanish.

Cumbre has a simple, two-page menu, with descriptions in both Spanish and English.  Two words:  Comfort food.  They have a long list of soups, a handful of things like salad and plantains, and a whole page of dishes that are best described by my American mind as meat-and-potatoes.  In fact, as it turns out, the potato originally comes from the mountainous western part of South America.  Being 1/8 Irish-American, I kind of thought potatoes come from Ireland, but oddly enough it appears that millions of Irish sustained themselves for generations (because the English allowed them little else) with a tuber that comes from the Andes.  Go figure.  Anyway, apparently there are potatoes in just about all Bolivian main dishes, and we definitely saw that at Cumbre.  Dan Quayle would find this place a challenge.

We wanted to try the main dishes, but we were already fixated on the idea of some soup on a cold day, so we ordered both.  I recommend against doing this.  As it turns out, lunch is the main meal of the day in Bolivia, and the portions at Cumbre are VERY generous.  The soup itself is more than enough to be its own meal.  You live, you learn.

The soups:

I had corn soup, which I believe was called lagua de choclo.  It’s not like corn chowders I’ve had in the past.  In fact, at first I thought the server had brought the wrong thing.  There are no visible kernels of corn.  Instead, the corn is ground and basically thickens and flavors the soup.  There are, however, big chunks of potatoes and one sizable piece of beef.  It was very flavorful but not overly spicy.  In fact, if you want to try new kinds of Latin American cuisine but you’re not into really spicy food, Bolivian seems like a good choice.  For those that like the heat, there’s a little clay pot of hot pepper sauce on the table:

Corn soup

Allan had sopa de mani, which is peanut soup.  There are potatoes in this one too, but they come in the form of french fries– fun!!   I liked this a bit less than the corn soup, and I’m not sure I would enjoy a large bowl of it.  But if you like peanuts in other types of savory dishes, you’ll probably like this.

sopa de mani

Main Dishes

There seems to be a pretty standard format for Bolivian main dishes:  Boiled potatoes and either rice or hominy, some type of meat, and a savory, stew-like sauce, all topped with sliced fresh tomatoes and onions.  Googling after coming back from Cumbre, I’m seeing a lot of dishes that resemble what we ate.  It reminds me of traditional American meals (think Thanksgiving dinner) that consist of a meat, some type of potato, and at least one vegetable dish.  Like I said, comfort food.

I had aji de lengua, which is beef tongue.  This was only my second time eating tongue, the first being Korean barbecue.  I used to avoid it because the idea of eating a cow’s tongue grossed me out.  My advice to you:  if you’re the same way, get over it.  You’re missing out.

Allan had falso conejo, which means false rabbit.  It’s actually beef, pounded and breaded before cooking.  There actually aren’t too many rabbits in the Andes, but they do have lots of guinea pigs, which are a favorite food and commonly nicknamed the rabbits of the Andes.  So it’s weird that this dish isn’t called false guinea pig.  But I digress.  Here are the dishes:

Aji de lengua

Falso conejo

Both dishes reminded me of a hearty stew that wasn’t quite fully assembled.

Here’s a link to a review from the Eating in Translsation blog, which has much better photos than mine (although the same fascination with the little clay pots that the hot sauce comes in).  I learned from reading this post that those packed weekend parties are actually routine performances of Andean music (which explains the sound equipment in the restaurant, and also the fact that they run music videos for traditional and modern Andean music on their big-screen TV).  Maybe we’ll head back some time and be a little less timid.

The whole meal cost about $20 including the tip.  The final verdict:  If you’re looking for a variation on stick-to-your-ribs, meat-and-potatoes comfort food, this is a great place to go.  Since this place is so close to our apartment, Allan is already talking about running over there for lunch on the days when he works from home.  But if you go, do a soup OR a main dish, not both at the same time.

Cumbre on Urbanspoon

A voice of reason about the lap band bandwagon

January 12, 2011

By now I think we’ve all read that the FDA is on the brink of approving the Allergan lap band for fatties who are only a little bit fat.  This week, Diana Zuckerman wrote a terrific op-ed piece for the New York Times that questions the wisdom of doing so.  As she very wisely points out, there’s no real data showing that the benefits of lap bands outweigh the risks even for the people getting them right now, so letting even less-fat people have them (and, by the way, opening the door for Medicare and Medicaid to pay for that) is rushing things just a tad.

Here’s a link to the piece.

Once this genie is out of the bottle, our national obsession with fat guarantees it will be hell to put it back in.  So let’s get some real, long-term data on the table that says this is safer and healthier in the long term than other options– including just leaving people the heck alone– before we start tossing lap bands at everybody who doesn’t have sixpack abs.  (And before you say that’s an exaggeration, are you sure you know what a person with a BMI of 30 looks like? Here are a few examples.)

Should the faculty and staff of a women’s college be losing weight for cash?

January 5, 2011

Last fall, a wealthy, weight-obsessed alumna of Stephens College, a women’s college in Missouri, dangled a $1 million donation in front of the cash-strapped college with one condition:  the staff had to collectively lose at least 250 pounds by January 1.  In addition, the donor will kick in an additional $100,000 if the college’s president, Dianne Lynch, loses 25 pounds herself.  Here’s a link to her photograph.  Does she look to you like she needs to lose 25 pounds?

I worked for a women’s college for a few years when I still lived in Ohio.  It was one of the most meaningful experiences of my life.  Women’s colleges are special places.  They produce a disproportionately high number of female leaders.  This isn’t surprising, considering every leadership position on campus goes to a female student– they are the captains of every sports team, the presidents of every club,  the valedictorians and salutatorians of every graduating class, and they constitute the entire membership of the student government.

Women’s colleges are one of the few places you can go that seem to truly value women for the content of their brains and their characters, not for the way they look.  Since there are no male students around, the pressure to have perfect hair, makeup, and clothes in order to look pretty for the menfolk is largely absent.  I remember being thrilled to see the students roaming the halls in clothes that were casual but modest, with hair that was combed but not carefully coiffed, and faces largely devoid of makeup.  It was about the learning there.  Not about the competition to see who is the thinnest and the prettiest.

Then the college went coed, largely for budgetary reasons, and it nearly broke my heart.  The very next semester, even with relatively few male students on campus, the behavior and appearance of the women noticeably changed.  They began dressing differently– less for comfort, more for display, especially the display of lots of skin.  I heard stories of women putting on prom dresses just to go visit the men’s dorm, in some cases to do their laundry for them.  The makeup came back.  The hair came back.  In short, the emphasis on women’s bodies and physical appearance came back, and how.  (Also, the very first semester we had men living on campus they set fire to their own dorm, but that’s a story for another time.)

Despite the benefits of attending a women’s college, a campus devoid of men is a very hard sell for teenage girls today.  Keeping enrollments up is a challenge, and aside from an elite few, women’s colleges are all under enormous pressure to raise money any way they can.  When you have a chance to bring in a cool million, it’s hard to say no.

These were the things on my mind when I first read the story about Stephens College last fall.  Now there’s an update:  The staff has lost just over 300 pounds total, and the president is more than halfway to her individual goal of 25 pounds.  Looks like Stephens is going to get the money.  But does this monetary end justify the means?

Is this donor really health-obsessed, or just weight-obsessed?

The evidence points to the latter.  The thing of which she seems to be most proud is that, at age 86, she weighs exactly the same number of pounds she did when she got married.  Not that her blood pressure or cholesterol or endurance are the same, but that the size of her body is the same– a trim 117 pounds.  (Incidentally, it tells me a lot that the donor shared her weight with the president, the president shared it with the press, and virtually every article and blog post I read on this story specifically mentions it.  Unless she’s really, REALLY short, at 117 she has got to be very thin, and it’s obvious that we all seem to find that fact to be very important to the story.)

Does she really want the staff at Stephens to be healthier, or just thinner?  Again, the evidence points to the latter.  The metric she chose was not improved health outcomes such as better blood pressure, lower cholesterol, a better resting heart rate, healthier blood glucose levels, or anything else.  It also wasn’t an easily measurable exercise goal, such as total miles walked (easily measured with personal pedometers), total hours logged at the gym, participation in fitness classes, nutritional counseling, etc.  Nope, just pounds lost.  As far as I can tell, there was no instruction on how this was to be accomplished, no way to monitor how it was being accomplished, no concern for whether weight loss was indicated or even prudent for each individual participant, and no attention paid to whether the participants would be able to keep the weight off in the long term.  We know that these types of contests tend to encourage unhealthy weight-loss strategies.  We also know that virtually all dieting leads to regain of the weight and that weight cycling itself is dangerous– maybe moreso than just remaining fat (for those who were fat to begin with).  As far as I can tell, these issues were completely ignored for the Stephens contest: by the donor, by the president, by the participants, and by virtually every member of the media, mainstream or otherwise.

Now that the weight has been lost, we know who did it, and how it was done.  Photographs and videos show that even people already well below the upper bound of what is considered to be a “healthy weight” attempted to lose weight to earn the money for their employer.  The president herself appears to have been at a healthy weight before the competition even started, and it’s not clear at all that a weight loss goal of 25 pounds was appropriate or even safe in her case.  If she consulted her doctor before she began her diet, she hasn’t mentioned that to the press.

Did Stephens really want its staff to get healthier, or did they really just want the cash?

Again, the evidence indicates the latter.  It’s pretty clear what motivated Stephens to take on the challenge.  At the outset, Lynch said this about the challenge:  “This is a good thing.  If we do this, we’re $500,000 ahead of our budget goals.”  In fact, the part about adding an additional $100K if she lost 25 pounds was apparently her idea.  That’s disappointing coming from a woman in a leadership position with multiple degrees in feminist history.

Since then, the college has tried very hard to frame the contest for the press in terms of getting healthier.  But if they really wanted to get healthier, they could have done so at any time.  For the contest– but not at any time prior to it– Lynch paid staff to spend an hour a day at the gym.  For the contest– but not at any time prior to it– nutritional counseling and healthy snacks were provided for the staff.  Lynch normally keeps a snack jar in her office for visitors.  For the contest, she put fruit in the jar.  Prior to the contest, there was candy in it.

How Writers Covered the Story

Not surprisingly, the Stephens story has been covered very differently by different writers, with the mainstream media largely choosing the lazier “weight loss automatically and universally signifies better health and is therefore always an unqualified good” view and bloggers thinking a bit more critically.  Very few mainstream publications, including the Chronicle of Higher Education and Inside Higher Education, questioned the wisdom of academics allowing themselves to be bribed into losing weight on a deadline, however they manage to do so, whether they need it or not.  Elizabeth Kissling, a blogger for Ms. Magazine, wr0te the very best piece I’ve seen on the Stephens story.  I know most of you don’t click on the links in my posts, so I’m telling you now, stop reading this post, click on this link to Kissling’s piece, and go read it.  It’s way better than anything I’m going to write.

Here’s some other thoughtful coverage on the story:

The Sustainable Food blog at Change.org took Stephens and the donor to task not only for an ill-conceived project that is not supported by research, but also for not spending the money more wisely on things more likely to actually make a lasting impact.  Here’s a bit of what change.org blogger Tara Lohan had to say:

[W]eight-loss challenges like this one address Americans’ growing waistlines in the wrong way. Obesity is such an epidemic because of a host of complex, interrelated issues like our dysfunctional food system, poor health care, food deserts, junk food marketing, an increasingly sedentary culture — the list goes on and on.

So while it’s great to see people become more fit, the idea that shedding pounds for a one-time goal (of money!) would help achieve that seems ludicrous. What this competition — and all weight-loss competitions, for that matter —  is more likely to do is make the staff feel really bad about their bodies. Plus, singling out the president is just downright insulting. Also, this is a staff-wide endeavor, which means that anyone can lose the weight, even people who really shouldn’t.

At Care2, Amelia Thomson-DeVeaux puts it this way (there are some great comments under the post, too, especially noting the poor message the contest sends to students by focusing on pounds rather than true measures of health):

Lynch seems to have bravely put on her game face in an attempt to snag the cash, saying, that the donation is “unique” because it’s not about creating a scholarship or new program (you know, those silly programs that help the students) – no, it’s about “investing in the people who work at this college.”

Investing in them?  Or making them feel inadequate and body-conscious?  The donor in question seems to have no shortage of self-righteousness; “fit and fond of organic food,” she wants to generously use her wealth to incentivize weight loss among America’s obese population.  But there also seems to be a heavy dose of body image issues – according to Lynch, the donor, at 87, “weighs exactly what she did when she married her husband—117 pounds. It’s a point of pride for her that she has maintained her youthful physique.”

In her Size Matters blog at Bitch Magazine online, Tasha Fierce wrote a great piece about the relationship between this type of contest and the detrimental effects of body shaming.  Here’s a quote on point:

As if size discrimination wasn’t enough to deal with, many workplaces are instituting weight loss incentive programs, which further marginalizes fat employees. Incentive programs that include rewards for departments or teams that lose the most weight create a hostile atmosphere in which fat people are shamed for not being able to lose significant amounts of weight. For example, an alumna of Stephens College in Missouri recently pledged to donate $1 million to the college if the staff loses a collective 250 pounds by January 1, 2011. This puts undue pressure on fat staff members who may or may not be able to lose enough weight to contribute “their part” of the collective 250 lbs.

In response to this, folks may point out that many of the follow-up stories include very positive comments from participants on the staff and no reports of shaming.  To those folks, I would say this:  Trust me, one of the only things western society likes about the fat people they shame is their silence.  If there’s somebody at Stephens who spent her whole life yo-yo dieting and is now intractably fat as a result of a lifetime of disordered eating, I guarantee you two things:  First, that this contest triggered feelings she has worked very hard to overcome, and second, that shes suffered in silence through the whole contest and didn’t say one damn word about it to anybody.

Been there, done that.  One day I’ll write a post about the time my coworkers wanted to gather enough participants to form an on-site Weight Watchers group, so they had a membership drive that consisted mostly of fat-shaming emails and fliers combined with in-person hard sells.  If you didn’t participate, not only were you failing to make a “healthy choice” for yourself, but you were also letting down your coworkers by depriving them of the minimum number of participants they needed to lure a WW counselor to their worksite.

But I digress.  Shameless Mag has this to say about the Stephens contest:

Coerced weight loss for money? Really?

Manipulative?

Unfair?

Promoting a healthier lifestyle? Why tie it to weight loss and not to activity levels or fruit and veggie consumption, then?

A commenter under the post said this:

Wow! Young women can barely escape being bombarded by unrealistic/harmful/dangerous(!) beauty ideals outside of the classroom, but now their whole academic experience could be tainted by the same messages.

Elena at Women’s Glib said this about the contest:

Why isn’t this anonymous donor pledging one million dollars if the school gets most of their food from within a 50 mile radius? Or if the school creates a program promoting physical activity? Also, if I ever got to meet President Lynch, I think I’d talk to her about many things other than whether or not she should lose weight. Evidently, it’s not enough that Lynch has many academic achievements, seems to be very well-loved by the student body (she became president after I left, and actually sent me a very nice email), or writes a very cool blog.  She evidently also has to fit an anonymous donor’s (who evidently weighs 117 pounds) idea of what is an acceptable weight [emphasis mine].

The Columbia Tribune ran the story, and a commenter posted this beneath it:

I’m not going to lie, I’d quit if I worked there. The consequences of a program like this are potentially disastrous. While the intentions are good and I agree with the statement that many people in America have very unhealthy lifestyles this is absolutely not the way to motivate people to change.

Programs like this lead to disordered eating. If the program is optional those women who do not participate are automatically stigmatized. Those that are visibly overweight will feel pressure to participate because they have the potential to lose the most pounds…people with (probably) already poor body image and self esteem will be placed in a situation where they are put on display…even if they do not participate this will be the case. Their coworkers, students, the community (this was published in the columbia daily tribune and the community benefits from having a successful university in their town) will wonder why they have opted out. They are arbitrarily using pounds as a health indicator and financially incentivizing body shaming. There has GOT to be more creative things they can do to promote healthy living on campus for ALL (students, faculty and staff) than create a 4 month rat race to some arbitrary 250 lb mark all of which, statistically speaking, will be gained back in the next year.

Columnist Amanda Woytus at the Columbia Missourian had this to say:

Students at the women’s college won’t participate, but some employees hope it will set a good example.

By a good example, I’m sure they meant inspiring students to live healthier lives, but the challenge isn’t a wellness challenge. It’s a weight-loss challenge [emphasis mine], evidenced by the goal’s measurement being pounds lost.

Healthiness is related to weight. Diabetes, high blood pressure, heart disease and certain types of cancer and gynecological problems are all linked to obesity. But you can also be thin and binge drink, chain smoke and eat nothing but Yogoluv’s frozen yogurt.

Losing 1 1/2 pounds, though it might start a pattern of healthier living, isn’t going to significantly improve an individual’s health. I don’t see the point. Maybe, as Lynch volunteered, the point is to put the school ahead of its budget goal.

Daniel Luzer, who writes for the College Guide blog at the Washington Examiner, points out that this “may well be the first time a college president managed to leverage a donation out of [a] conversation in which an alumnus basically just indicated that she was too fat.”  He’s one of the few male authors I’ve seen who questioned the wisdom and appropriateness of Stephens’ contest.

Time Magazine and  A few writers point out that the Stephens weight loss challenge (note nobody ever called it the Stephens Get Healthier Challenge) happened during the same time period as another initiative happening on college campuses last fall– the No Fat Talk Week.  Recognizing the damage done by constantly commenting on the sizes of women’s bodies and using the word “fat” as a weapon, women leaders developed No Fat Talk Week to begin to counteract the problem.  Apparently, Stephens didn’t get the memo.

Got Hypocrisy?

November 8, 2010

The U.S. government spends millions of dollars studying how Americans’ crummy diets are making us all unhealthy and funding programs to try to get us all to straighten up and fly right.  So you’d think when we finally show some improvement– say, by cutting way back on our consumption of full-fat dairy products– the government would be thrilled, right?  Wrong.

I guess I really shouldn’t be all that surprised.  After all, this is the U.S. Department of Agriculture.  These are the people that brought us corn subsidies.  It’s old news by now that corn subsidies are a disaster from a public health standpoint because they make the unhealthiest foods also the cheapest foods to buy.  If you don’t know what I’m talking about, read something by Michael Pollan or put Food, Inc. on your Netflix list.  I hate to say it, but it would appear that all those crazies who think the government is trying to kill them really may be on to something.

Apparently we’ve been cutting back on full-fat dairy products, and this is unacceptable.  So the USDA figured out a way to put more cheese on a Domino’s pizza and then helped Domino’s market their pizza to us.   Here’s the New York Times article.  Read it and know that the department of the executive branch of government that oversees the food supply really doesn’t give a shit about your health.  And it is very happy to spend millions of dollars counteracting the millions of dollars spent by, say, the Department of Health and Human Services, which really wants you to cut back on your saturated fat.  Is it really any wonder that the government is flat broke?

Some quotes from the article:

Domino’s Pizza was hurting early last year. Domestic sales had fallen, and a survey of big pizza chain customers left the company tied for the worst tasting pies.

Then help arrived from an organization called Dairy Management. It teamed up with Domino’s to develop a new line of pizzas with 40 percent more cheese, and proceeded to devise and pay for a $12 million marketing campaign.

…one slice contains as much as two-thirds of a day’s maximum recommended amount of saturated fat, which has been linked to heart disease and is high in calories.

And Dairy Management, which has made cheese its cause, is not a private business consultant. It is a marketing creation of the United States Department of Agriculture — the same agency at the center of a federal anti-obesity drive that discourages over-consumption of some of the very foods Dairy Management is vigorously promoting.

Urged on by government warnings about saturated fat, Americans have been moving toward low-fat milk for decades, leaving a surplus of whole milk and milk fat. Yet the government, through Dairy Management, is engaged in an effort to find ways to get dairy back into Americans’ diets, primarily through cheese.

The organization’s activities, revealed through interviews and records, provide a stark example of inherent conflicts in the Agriculture Department’s historical roles as both marketer of agriculture products and America’s nutrition police.

Dr. Walter C. Willett, chairman of the nutrition department at the Harvard School of Public Health and a former member of the federal government’s nutrition advisory committee, said: “The U.S.D.A. should not be involved in these programs that are promoting foods that we are consuming too much of already. A small amount of good-flavored cheese can be compatible with a healthy diet, but consumption in the U.S. is enormous and way beyond what is optimally healthy.”

In 1995, the government created Dairy Management Inc., a nonprofit corporation that has defined its mission as increasing dairy consumption by “offering the products consumers want, where and when they want them.”

Agriculture Department data show that cheese is a major reason the average American diet contains too much saturated fat.

The department’s nutrition committee issued a new standard this summer calling for saturated fat not to exceed 7 percent of total calories, about 15.6 grams in a 2,000-calorie-a-day diet. Yet the average intake has remained about 11 percent to 12 percent of total calories for at least 15 years.

The department issued nutritional hints in a brochure titled “Steps To A Healthier You!” It instructs pizza lovers: “Ask for whole wheat crust and half the cheese” — even as Dairy Management has worked with pizza chains like Domino’s to increase cheese.

Dairy Management runs the largest of 18 Agriculture Department programs that market beef, pork, potatoes and other commodities. Their budgets are largely paid by levies imposed on farmers, but Dairy Management, which reported expenditures of $136 million last year, also received $5.3 million that year from the Agriculture Department to promote dairy sales overseas.

By comparison, the department’s Center for Nutrition Policy and Promotion, which promotes healthy diets, has a total budget of $6.5 million.

Dairy Management’s longtime chief executive, Thomas P. Gallagher, received $633,475 in compensation in 2008, with first-class travel privileges, according to federal tax filings. Annual compensation for two other officials top $300,000 each.

According to contract records released through the Freedom of Information Act, Dairy Management’s role in helping to develop Domino’s pizzas included generating and testing new pizza concepts.

So basically, the USDA is out there pimping the very same substance the USDA itself is telling us to cut back on, and they’re doing it through Dominos Pizza, exactly the type of fast food place we keep hearing we should be avoiding.  If you read the whole article, you’ll also see that Dairy Management is marketing cheese to us through Taco Bell, Burger King, and Pizza Hut.

So the inescapable conclusion is this:  The USDA is completely FUBAR, it doesn’t actually want us to eat healthier, and it wastes millions of dollars cancelling out the activities of one of its branches with the activities of another.

Got milk?


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